Every week, someone tells me they’re thinking about renting a car for their Tuscany trip. And every week, I try to talk them out of it — at least for this part of it. Florence, Pisa, and Lucca sit close enough together that a car actively works against you. All...
A few weeks ago, a guest asked me what “allora” meant — because her Italian neighbor had used it on her and she wasn’t sure if she’d been complimented or diagnosed. We spent the next twenty minutes somewhere between Siena and a hilltop we were, in theory,...